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R/C Airplane Building Tips
 

This page describes some of my frequently used building procedures. Instead of describing them repeatedly, I'll link to them here. Click "Back" link to return to the previous page.
 

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CA Hole Threads Procedure

This is a very common procedure. You should do this whenever you make a self threading screw hole into wood (to help strengthen it). Works especially well for parts that need to be removable (an aileron servo holder/cover is a good example) but would cause a crash if the screws fell out or stripped loose in flight. However, now that I've seen how much better the screws hold, I do it for pretty much every screw hole I drill into wood.
 

  1. You usually start with a hole drilled a couple of sizes smaller than the screw (so it will create some good threads when screwed in the first time). For example, a standard self-tapping servo screw requires a 1/16" hole drilled
  2. Install the part with the proper screw and barely tighten (not too tight ... don't strip it out).
  3. Loosen the screw and remove it and the part. Gain access to the newly threaded hole in the wood.
  4. Drop a drop or two of Thin CA glue into the hole and let it wick into the wood. If you need to you can swish the glue around the wood hole's threads with a toothpick (but be quick so the toothpick doesn't get glued inside).
  5. Let glue dry completely for 1 hour. The idea is not to get the screw glued into the hole. The treads and surrounding wooden area will now be stronger ... more like plastic.
  6. Re-install part with original screw. Use original threads and don't cross-thread.
         

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Collar Mount Procedure

You should do this whenever you attach a wheel collar to an axle to keep it from rotating, loosening, and/or falling off. This gives the set screw something flat to set down against. For this example, we are describing wheel collars on an axle.
 

  1. Start by attaching the collars (with no set screws) and wheel into their correct positions.
  2. Using a fine tip permanent marker, mark a small circle spot on the axle, through the empty screw hole of the collar.
  3. Remove the collars and wheel. With the marks, you should be able to tell where the collars were.
  4. Using a small hand file or Dremel tool (cut-off wheel works good), file a small flat spot (1/16"-1/8" in diameter) on the axle where the mark is (basically ... grinding it away). You remove very little.
  5. Reattach and tighten the collars permanently (with the wheel or whatever they are holding on). The set screw will now tighten down snugly in the flat spot, against the axle.
  6. If it's for a wheel make sure the wheel still turns freely, but doesn't wobble.
  7. Using a toothpick, drop a half a drop of blue Loctite into the threads of the secured set screw. Be sure not to get any on the side of the collar, the wheel, or the axle.
  8. If the collar is too small to mark the hole through the collar, mark both sides of it on the axle and then grind the flat spot half-way inbetween the two marks.
         

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Glow Fuel Tank Leak Testing

If it's been a while since you saw the inside of the tank, open it up and check the inside tubing and clunk and all the external tubing. With a permanent marker, mark the tank's 2 or 3 lines. Put it back together and tighten the screw (as tight as it has to be, but don't strip it out or split the tank). Make sure the stopper will not pull out or rotate any more. Then connect the in to the out or otherwise cap off the lines with tubing and submerge the tank in a bucket of water and squeeze gently and look for any bubbles. If it passes, dry it off real good and then put a drop of blue Loctite on the side of the screw head (on the metal stopper cover) and let it dry before you run the plane again. I think it's one of those things you want to check at the beginning of every season.

Larger glow engines seem to put out a lot of pressure on the tank pressure tap. While this is good and required to keep the fuel pressure up, it can cause problems if your fuel plumbing is not 95-100% operational.
 

   
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Futaba 6EXA and 6EXA-S Radio Tips

Program End Point Adjustment (EPA) before setting up Dual Rates (D/R).

They both have Exponential (Expo). It's a secondary function off of the D/R programming. When setting Expo on Futabas, you want negative numbers for less travel in the middle of the sticks. Switch the D/R switch while in program mode to program independently for both rates.

When programming EPA, move the stick or control to set both ends (i.e. up and down, etc.)

Major observed differences between Futaba 6EXA and 6EXA-S (Super):

bullet6EXA-S is FM (PPM) as well as PCM (1024). 6EXA is FM only.
bullet6EXA-S gives you a programmable 4 digit alpha-numeric name for each model.
bullet6EXA-S has a dedicated "Throttle Cut" button. The 6EXA double functions the Trainer switch for this.
bullet6EXA-S has D/R and Expo programming for channels 1-Aileron, 2-Elevator, 4-Rudder. The 6EXA only supports them for 1-Aileron and 2-Elevator.
 

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Off-Site Build Links
Gasoline Engine Weights Chart

CA Hinges Installation

Covering (MonoKote etc.)
 
 
   

 

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