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Seagull Edge 540 Repairs
Aircraft | Building | Flight Log | Links | Repair


Landing Gear Repairs

After 1-1/2 years and over 100 flights, the Edge is on the workbench needing it's first major structural repair. Use the left or top menu if you are instead looking for initial build info. or mods.

 

While keeping the speed up to fight a strong 20mph cross-wind, I made a poor landing (but not really all that hard). On touch-down it broke off the right front landing gear.

There have been a few unexpected grass/field landings in the past (and yes, some just generally poor landings). I usually just remove the (soft alloy) gear and bend it back into shape in the vise.

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The blind-nuts on the right side tore clean through. Carefully removing old 1/4" (3 ply) plywood landing gear mount.

With the right edge carefully removed, this is how much was actually cracked or splintered in the middle.

Once all the middle splintered wood was removed, I decided I should keep going and remove the whole piece across (since it's a 2 piece gear, it needs the lateral strength).

I made a card template of this side before removing it. There is just enough room to install the blind-nuts without them touching the center supports or the sides.

Removing old ply is not as easy as it sounds. It was in there really good and it's a little hard to tell where the bad piece stops and the good starts. Ended up using the Dremel's router/cutting tools, a drill and a razor knife.

One of the center supports either came lose or was already lose. It was removed, cleaned of old/bad wood, re-shaped, sanded, and re-epoxied into place.

Seagull uses all metric blind-nuts in it's ARFs, but this was my chance to convert this assembly over to more readily available American (8-32) parts.

After re-bending straight :-) the two LG sides, re-drilled the holes on the metal landing gear with 11/64 bit (to accept 8-32x1" screws).

I cut a new piece of wood from 1/4" 5-ply plywood stock. I cut it by hand with a coping saw (and wasn't as hard as I expected). After sanding to fit snug, sanded the L/R edges to the proper contour.

Used the card template to mark preliminary hole centers, but also adjusted to make sure the hole sets would be equal distance from center and all in a straight line across. Double-check to be sure blind-nuts will not end up touching any of 4 wooden supports. Drill holes for 8-32 blind-nuts with a 13/64 bit. Hand-tighten 8-32 screws, washers, and blind-nuts (along with some temp. over-sized washers). Apply a little 30-min epoxy to non-threaded part of blind-nut and tighten screw to sink the nut down into wood snug (don't over-tighten). Let dry 8 hours.

Epoxied new plywood landing gear mount into place with 30-min. epoxy. Apply glue to both the plane and the new piece before pressing together. Wipe away excess glue with rubbing alcohol.

Weight down and let dry for at least 2-3 hours.

Put some masking tape over blind-nuts.

Mixed up some 30-min. epoxy and added some milled fiberglass. Carefully drizzled and brushed mixture into corners and joints. Avoid getting glue on blind-nuts.

Now let it all dry for 8 hours.

Painted with fuel-proof paint. I didn't have gray but I think red looks ok also.

Only lightly painted sides because MonoKote goes there anyway.

Install small sections of missing red MonoKote on each side. They were about 1" wide and overlapped any existing covering by 1/2". Just be sure all bare wood is either (fuel-proof) painted or covered.

Attached landing gear with 8-32x1" screws, lock-washers, and washers.

Reinstalled all components removed (including cowl). Installed wings and canopy and checked CG balance (no change).

Ready to fly to test it out.

Notes: The cost of this repair was $3.50 (for 1/4" plywood, and 8-32 screws and blind-nuts)... purchased from the LHS.
   

 

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